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Tag Archives: sardinia

4 Months in France, Portugal, Spain, and Italy

Here is a list of my 25 posts of our adventure in Europe. This is like a table of contents of our trip. Go above to Recipes and clock on Travel Eats. You’ll find this list of posts there!

What’s To Eat in Paris?

What’s To Eat in Lisbon?

What Else is There to Eat in Lisbon?

What’s to Eat in Seville?

What’s to Do and Eat in Córdoba Spain?

What to Eat and Do Near Sitges Spain?

What’s to Eat in Provence?

Village Hopping in Provence Part 1

Village Hopping in Provence Part 2

What’s to Eat in Provence?

What’s to Eat in Corsica?

Where to Go in Corsica?

What’s to Eat in Sardinia?

Where to Go in Sardinia?

What’s to Eat in Sicily?

Discovering Sicily

Beautiful Puglia and It’s Trulli

What and Where is Puglia?

What’s to Eat in Puglia and Where is It?

What’s to Eat and Do in Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast? Part 1 of the Amalfi Coast

Beautiful Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast, Part 2 of the Amalfi Coast

Sorrento, Making Limoncello and Beyond, Part 3 of the Amalfi Coast

Sorrento, Herculaneum and Naples, Part 4 of the Amalfi Coast

Assisi

2 Days in Milano

Istanbul Backstreets and Eats

Where To Go in Sardinia?

We spent a week in Sardinia over 20 years ago and vowed to return.  Last time we attended a conference at a resort on the southern tip, Chia Laguna, and also drove to Bosa and up to Castelsardo on the north coast. This time we spent 2 weeks in Bosa on the west coast, and took day trips from there.

With our rental car we took an overnight ferry from Bonifacio Corsica to Sardinia.

Here are some pics and sights worth seeing!

The Sardinian coastline on our drive from the ferry port at Santa Theresa de Galura to Bosa.

  
Approaching Bosa

  
Bosa is an ancient city founded in 1112 by the Malaspina. They built the Malaspina castle on a hill overlooking the Temo River or the Fiume Temo and the Mediterranean Sea. Ruins of a Roman bridge and San Pietro church dedicated in 1058 are also on the river.

   Bosa on the Fiume Temo and the Mediterranean Sea.

 Bosa and the mountains around
   

Castle view from our apartment


 The River Temo and the old tannery buildings with fishing nets and boat.

   

Malaspina Castle ruins
  

Almond trees in the castle property  
 

Ancient tannery buildings  


Renovated Tannery buildings 

Bosa has a long history of tanning hides of animals to make the leather purses and coats we love. They did this for centuries till 1963. These are the buildings where the hides were processed and the river which provided the water. Today the buildings are turning into boutiques and cafes.

   

A Romanesque style church, San Pietro, up the river founded in 1058.

  San Pietro

 



Roman
wall near the Romanesque church. 

   
  

Colorful Bosa

  

Evening on the Temo River

  

One of many squares for relaxing

  

This tiny truck style is seen everywhere

   

  

 

Colorful coastline on our drive north to Alghero. Ancient CatalanArgonese of northern Spain had  7000 watch towers all over and many still stand. Theses towers were built close together along the coast so they could communicate with each other and warn the people of pirates and invaders. In the Middle Ages Sardinia became 4 kingdoms. The Pisans and Genoese battled for it in the 13th century. In 1479 Sardinia became a Spanish Territory. In 1720 the Italian Savoys took over. Sardinia became part of Italy in the 1861 Italian Unification.

   

 

Untouched close ups!

   
Fishing boat in Bosa on Fiume Temo

Ancient CatalanArgonese watch towers are all over Sardinia.  They were spaced close together along the coast so they could communicate with each other. This one is in Bosa Marina, on the Mediterranean Sea.

  

Bosa
Marina
   

   
  Bosa on the Fiume Temo

 
An old timer in Bosa with his double sided satchel and his walking stick. 

 
This special train ride was the green train or the Treno Verde which was a lovely ride through the Malvasía wine regions and a wine tasting along the way. The presenter was of the Columba family, first award winners for Malvasía.

 

Treno Verde  
 

Malvasía vineyards  

Malvasía vineyards near Bosa  


 

Treno
Verde friends from Poland and Milano in Trennura, where the ride ended. Colorful murals cover the town walls. Similar murals are seen in other villages too.

   
  

More beautiful scenery on the road from Bosa north to Alghero.

   

Sheep grazing along the road to Alghero

   
  

Alghero
is an hour drive and is a larger ancient city. 

   

We took a boat trip to Cappo Rossa…..  
   

And to Neptunes Grotto which is so large it took an hour to walk through!

   
We took a day trip to Silanus to see the Santo Sabina Tower or Thelos which dates to 1800-500 BC. There are 7000 of these types of structures all over Sardinia today and there used to be more. They are generally called nuraghi of the nuraghi people. They probably came to the island from what we know as the Italian mainland. The towers were probabLy watch towers. We entered this tower and climbed to the top.

Santo Sabina Church is Byzantine style and used the basalt rocks from the top tiers of the nuraghi tower to build the church.

    

The surrounding pasteurland is lovely and the positioning of these 2 architectural time periods.

   
  

  

  .  

There are miles of these stone walls in Sardinia and there is no mortar used to keep them together.

 
An ancient well dating to the nuraghi.

   

Also took a ride towards Macomer to the Tamuli where we saw the Tombs of the 3 Giants, which are burial sites in stone and are also of the nuraghi.

These are the 3 women of the 6 Menhir watching over the village and the tomb of the Giants. The Menhir always face east.

  

  

   
 Here is part of the nuraghi village

  
Rocky mountains overlooking pasteurland and sheep.

    

Murals like this are painted in Montresta, a village with strong Greek heritage near Bosa.

  
Mural of the Sardinian flag with the faces of two famous artists from the village, a poet and a singer.


Here’s some new renovation in Montresta where growth and tourism are developing.

  

  

Ancient farm structures in Montresta.

  
Church in Montrsta

   Any questions, let me know at ninafrurip@gmail.com

What’s to Eat in Sardinia?

This sister island to Corsica is less dramatic, but more colorful. The shrubby plants are brightly colored with warm hues. While Corsica is French, Sardinia is Italian. They both dream of independence!

Sardinia raises sheep on their mountains while Corsica raises goats. So we find sheeps milk cheese in Sardinia. Sardinia was also under constant attack like Corsica, so the people also moved away from the coasts and ate the wild boar, but no fish. Today seafood is plentiful in the coastal towns, but not the mountain villages.

We spent 12 days in Bosa, a seaside city on the Temo River which flows into the sea. Here are some of the foods we tried in Bosa and nearby villages.

  
We picked up this panini at a roadside deli next to a gas station out in the middle of nowhere. The bread was fresh and crispy and the sandwich was filled with prosciutto and sliced mild cheese. Very fresh and flavorful! About 8 men of all ages were sitting there drinking beer in the afternoon. 

   
Bosa is famous for its “cru” wine of Malvasia. Cru means this wine can only be made in this region with the Malvasia grapes. It is a light amber color and on the sweet side. This was served as an aperitif on the house!


This is the ancient and still commanly used bread of Sardinia, carte de musica. This crisp and paper thin cracker like bread makes music when you break it!

  This is Trattoria Biancospino where we ate this delish lunch. It was one of the best meals of our trip! The buildings of Bosa date to the 14th and 15th centuries. Many remodeling designs expose the old stonework.

   

Now that we are in Italy, we see the primo and secondo courses. This is a primo of grilled eggplant topped with puréed eggplant and then strips of grilled mackerel and topped with a thin mozzarella cream sauce and fresh basil. Magnificent!

 
This primo is 1 large homemade ravioli filled with Gorgonzola and topped with sautéed artichoke, radicchio and mushrooms with a balsamic sauce.

  

  

This secondo is a piece of a whole grain carte de musica topped with braised calamari in a red wine sauce. To the side is a fresh salad of arugula, sliced fennel bulb and sliced orange topped with olive oil, salt and pepper! The juice from the orange adds to the marinade.

This secondo is a grilled beef steak with steamed Swiss chard.

   

Homemade walnut cake, cream sauce and sliced poached pears.

 
A perfect cappachino now that we are in Italy!  Zio Tore Cafe in Bosa, on the river.

  

The authentic pasta of Bosa, cagliaritani, dried and below, cooked with a frozen clam sauce added.

   

Our typical apartment meal: salad, cheese and bread with olive oil.

  
A mild cheese we found at this special market day in Bosa. The cheese is made in the nearby Village of Montresta.

 

Pastries of Bosa: almond macaroon, custard filled tart, almond with caramel roll and pastry filled with fig.

   
Thick focaccia topped with cherry tomato halves, a slight grating of hard cheese and dried oregano.

 

Delicious butter cookies with apricot filling and a crispy and moist almond macroon from a pastry shop only open 2 half days a week in Bosa.

   
Pillows of cracker like bread similar to carte de musica. 

 

Fried calamari, shrimp and a whole fish at San Ignasio in Bosa.

 
A sample platter of cold salads from a cafeteria in Alghero 

   
Rigatoni with pancetta, a smokey bacon.

 

Risotto with asparagus, lemon and pancetta from Mandiga Lestru in Macomer.

   
Sausage cut open and pork belly at Mandiga Lestru.  


 

 

  
Voltini, which is a thin slice of veal filled and rolled with meat and covered in a tomato meat sauce. All is on top of a piece of carte de musica

 Poached or boiled potatoes and sliced fennel.

   
 

A frig full of tiramisu ready for take out at Mandiga Lestru in Macomer.

   

 

Crispy rolls served with lemon flavored olive oil at Green River or Verde Fiume in Bosa. One of the best meals served in a cafe overlooking the river in Bosa. More of our dinner…..

   
A primo or first course: farro, which seems a lot like barley to me, with zucchini, onion, calamari, curry and parsley. So flavorful!

 

House made ravioli filled with ricotta and spinach with a butter parsley sauce and grated parmigiana cheese.

   
Oven baked shrimp, calamari and a whole fish with lemon and parsley.

 

A pie like pastry filled with pear and chocolate and topped with vanilla ice cream.

   
Pizza that is folded after it is baked in squares and strips. One is filled with 4 cheeses and the other with mushroom, cheese and sausage. Giovanni’s Pizza in Bosa has a cool business model. His shop is take out only, but on both sides of him are bars with outdoor and indoor seating where you can order your drinks and eat his pizza! Evenings the crowds wait out the door for his pizza!

   

A very moist naval orange here and a fruit new to me. Nespole. The bottom pic show its seeds. Tastes like a citrusy apricot or nectarine. This fruit is blooming all over Sardinia and Sicily.

   
 

Fancy traditional breads on display in Bosa.

On to Sicily!