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What’s to Eat in Lisbon

As we explore the main sights of Lisbon, we taste the foods too. Dave prefers the meats and I the seafood. There is plenty of both here, from big chops of beef, lamb, goat etc to grilled whole fish, octopus and calamari. Sweets are everywhere. Even their cappuccino is dusted with cocoa and cinnamon

Appetizers

Boiled and Salted Shrimp and Beans

Peel the shrimp and pinch the skins off the beans before popping them in your mouth!


Cheese and Quince Paste

This is Sao Jorge cheese, but any medium dry hard cheese would work, like manchego.



Deep Fried Cod and Shrimp Cakes or Pastel de Bacalhau and Rissol de Camarao 

Similar to the croquettes in other countries, except there is a whole piece of shrimp inside with the chopped shrimp and breadcrumb mix. No dipping sauce required

Main Dish


Pork and Clams with Fried Potatoes

Dave ordered this twice. A stew of pork shoulder bite size pieces in a rich white wine and tomato broth with garlic, bay leaves, paprika and cloves.


Stuffed Calamari

The calamari body is stuffed with a mix of chopped calamari and rice, similar to stuffed cabbage. They are sealed with toothpicks and simmered in a tomato green pepper sauce, similar to creole sauce. I suspect there were other meaty type items in the stuffing too. Maybe other fish?


Steamed Octopus

Yes, I did eat this, or part of it. Very mild and not rubbery


Sautéed Whole Shrimp with Garlic with Fried Potatoes

Dave and I could not finish this, but took the leftovers home. The potatoes were super crispy and hot! Not greasy at all!


Grilled Calamari

The calamari were whole and maintained their rounded shape. Very fresh!

Dessert




Travesseiru, an almond filled puff pastry and Queijada, a round cheese filled tart

These desserts should only be purchased at the pastry shop that founded them. All others are a poor copy. 

Travesseiru is from Piriquita in Sintra, a town outside of Lisbon.

Queijada is from Sapa, also in Sintra.

We took an all day mini bus tour to Sintra. Nadia was a fabulous tour guide who advised us to eat at Piriquita II for lunch and for the Travesseiru pastries! We arranged through Viator and Inside Lisbon.



Pastel de Nata, custard filled puff pastry

These are from Pasteis de Belem, just west of Lisbon. Don’t run away from the long lines! They are for take away. Go inside where there’s plenty of room and wonderful service and ambiance!



Pastel de Nata Copycat

This was from the local grocery store and are available everywhere in Lisbon and nearby. Very good, but no where close to the real thing.

Beverages



Green Wine or Vinho Verde

This wine was on tap which made it effervescent! The green refers to the young white wines of the northern Minho region.


Porto Wine

This is a high alcohol (20%) fortified wine that was developed to make the long passages to England. We bought port wine, quince paste and Sao Jorge cheese on our Walking and Tasting Through Lisbon Tour organized with Viator and Inside Lisbon. Thank you Sophia! It was fantastic!



Ginjinha, a Cherry Liqueur

Made of sour cherries, ginja berries, and sometimes served in an edible chocolate cup.


Cappuccino and a Pingado

The sweet loving Portugese sprinkle cinnamon and cocoa over their generous milk foamed cappuccino.

Pingado is an espresso with a drop or ping of milk. The drop can be more or less depending where you go.

Enjoy the tastes and travels!

What’s to Eat in Paris

What’s to Eat in Paris



Parisians have a true love and enjoyment of food which they take seriously. You can see it on their faces as they walk down the street biting into a slice of flan or sitting close together literally rubbing elbows at cafes for lunch. 

Rosa Jackson from Edible-Paris designed a fantastic walking tour itinerary for us which led to the most intriguing eateries. Cheese, chocolate, charcuterie and truffles, open air markets and boulangeries. We loved every minute of it! Then she recommended cafes and restaurants for us too! This was a very efficient and helpful travel tool. Worth every penny! We started at this pastry shop/ boulangerie, Le Moulin de la Vierge, pictured above.




The Petit Gaygry was so soft it needed a wood box to keep its shape. The blue cheese also was soft enough to need a wax like coating. The ash covered goat cheese was more aged and harder. All were heavenly. They were purchased at the official best cheese shop in Paris, Quatrehomme on 62 rue de Sevres.



The French style of espresso with just a drop of steamed milk, cafe noisette.



This a new way to eat salmon for me! Diced and tossed with olive oil, lots of coarsely chopped fennel fronds, shallots and then formed into a mold. Mine was quickly seared on each side and raw in the middle. Most Parisians eat it raw or tartare. We ate this in the St Germaine quarter near our apartment at Cafe de l’ Empire.



Hugo &Victor is a high end artistic chocolate shop in the 6th arrondissement. Get it? Book, Victor Hugo?



Many unusual apples at the open air market, Marche Saxe-Breteuill, among everything else from fresh fish to Middle Eastern prepared food.



This flan is very firm, not too sweet, and can be eaten right out of your hand walking down the street. We found this at the legendary bakery Poilane.



At Christian Constants Cafe Constant I enjoyed the roasted scallops. Barely cooked and flavorful.



Il Flotante is a classic French dessert I loved at Cafe Constant. Meringue floating in sweet cream sauce.

Three days in Paris is not enough! I will return for a long stay next time.

French Pastry Cake with French Custard Filling

French Pastry Cake with Soft French Custard and Fresh Strawberry Filling


French Pastry Cake with Soft French Custard and Fresh Strawberry Filling

I have been making this cake since 1968. My mom learned to make it from a series of cooking classes she took at the Antoinette Pope Cooking School in downtown Chicago.  This was our family birthday cake Mom made for her large family who would gather at our home. The only cake similar I have tasted is the Yule Log made by the French pastry chef at Café Zinc, Jeremy Lecreuse.

This recipe is taken from The New Antoinette Pope Cook Book. I made a double recipe for this large cake.

One recipe is described here and is for an angel food cake pan or any pan of similar volume. A deep 9 x 13 inch baking pan would work as long as it is at least 3 inches deep.

In these cake photos I doubled this recipe and for my baking pan used a liner to a warming tray measuring 20 x 12 x 2.5 inches

This is a sponge cake which is similar to an angel food cake, except it has the addition of beaten egg yolks. The cake filling is fresh strawberries and a thick stove top custard, also a French recipe. The icing is beaten heavy whipping cream. I don’t add sugar, but you may add confectioners sugar as you beat the cream. Mom used to also decorate the cake, but I prefer to decorate with fresh flowers

Preheat oven to 300 degrees F.

1 1/2 cups sifted cake flour

1 3/4 cup sifted granulated sugar

12 large egg yolks (1 1/2 cups white and 1 cup yolks)

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons cream of tartar

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla


Measure egg yolks and whites


Sift and measure sugar and cake flour

  • In a large bowl combine flour with about 1/2 the sugar. Sift together at least 3 times.
  • Separate eggs carefully. In a medium bowl, beat yolks for several minutes until lemony
  • In a large bowl combine egg whites and salt. Beat until foamy. Sprinkle cream of tartar over surface. Continue beating until whites cling to sides of bowl. Beat 1 more minute.

When egg whites are beaten to foamy, add the cream of tartar which stabilizes the foam


  • With a plastic spatula fold beaten egg yolks into whites.

  • Fold in the other 1/2 of the sugar, about 1/4 cup at a time.
  • Fold in the flour and sugar mixture, 1/4 cup at a time.

Sonia Sanders folding the flour into the cake

Sonia Sanders folding the flour into the cake

Sprinkle 1/4 cup flour-sugar mixture over top and fold in

Sprinkle 1/4 cup flour-sugar mixture over top and fold in

Folding

Folding

  • Fold in vanilla.

  • Pour batter into a round loose bottom ungreased deep pan about 12 x 3 inches or an angel food cake pan about 4 x 10 inches. If using a pan without a removable bottom, place a 3 inch round of parchment paper on center bottom of pan, holding it in place with a little butter.
  • Bake 1 hour at 300 degrees.
  • Increase to 325 degrees and bake 10-20 minutes. Test for doneness with a toothpick or cake tester.
Double size cake baking in oven

Double size cake baking in oven

  • Turn cake upside town and balance so the cake does not touch the counter.


Standard round baking pans make 2-3 round cakes

Turn cake pan upside down and balance with cups to hold cake above the counter. Cake does not fall out!

Turn cake pan upside down and balance with cups to hold cake above the counter. Cake does not fall out!

  • Let cool about 2 hours or until cold. It is best to remove cake from pan as soon as it is cold.
  • Loosen sides and bottom with a spatula or dinner knife and turn out onto serving platter or cake rack.
  • When ready to ice, cut cake in half horizontally with a bread knife.

French Cream Filling (Top of Stove Custard)

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup sifted flour mixed with 2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/8 teaspoon salt

2 egg yolks

1/4 cup cool milk

2 cups warm milk

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon vanilla

  • In a stainless steel saucepan combine sugar, flour, cornstarch and salt.
  • In a small bowl beat yolks slightly and add the 1/4 cup cool milk.


  • Whisk yolk mixture slowly into dry ingredients.
  • Whisk warm milk into yolk mixture, a little at a time, until blended.

  • Cook over moderate heat until thickened, stirring constantly.
  • Lower heat and simmer 5 minutes.
  • Remove from heat and add butter.

  • Cool and continue to whisk often to prevent crust from forming.
  • Add vanilla when cool.
  • Cover top of custard with piece of plastic wrap to prevent crust from forming. Refrigerate until ready to use. 

Constructing the cake

  • Prepare a cake platter. I use a tray covered with aluminum foil and white paper doilies.
  • Divide the custard in half. Spread half of it on the cut side of the bottom cake layer.
Cake sliced in half and spread with custard and covered with fresh strawberries

Cake sliced in half and spread with custard and covered with fresh strawberries

  • Place fresh strawberry slices over the custard.
  • Spread the remaining half of custard on the cut side of the top layer of cake.
  • Carefully flip the top layer onto the strawberry layer.
Cake Assembled!

Cake Assembled!

It's a beautiful thing! And not super sweet!

It’s a beautiful thing! And not super sweet!

  • Beat at least 1 pint or more fresh whipping cream until spreadable. You can add some powdered sugar before beating if you want it a little sweeter.
  • Frost the cake top and then the sides with the whipping cream.
  • Voila!

Date Nut Balls

This is a mid century cookie my Aunt Olga made for us. It’s one of my favs and requires no baking! Only a little stove top simmering! I usually double this recipe


  
  
Date Nut Ball Ingredients

Ingredients

1 egg

1 stick butter

1 cup brown sugar

8 oz dates, pitted and chopped

2 cups Rice Krispies

1/2 cup walnuts, chopped

1 cup granulated sugar for rolling

Directions

1. In a small bowl beat 1 egg till thick and lemony

  
2. In a medium saucepan melt butter

3. Whisk in dark brown sugar 

4. Add beaten egg and beat again with an electric hand beater until thick and combined

5. Stir in 8 ounces chopped dates. Bring to a boil. Then simmer 3-5 minutes or until thick, whisking or stirring constantly.

  

Egg beaten into brown sugar mixture

Dates added to egg and sugar mixture


Heated mixture after simmering

6. Cool 5-10 minutes

7. In a large bowl combine:
2 cups Rice Krispies
1/2 cup chopped walnuts

8. Add date mixture to Rice Krispie mix and stir with a large spatula.

  

Date mixture added to Rice Krispies


Date Nut Ball Ready to Roll

9. Press and roll into 1 inch small balls and roll in granulated sugar. I like one bite size cookies. Place balls on a wax paper covered tray to completely cool and harden

Voila!

IMG_1220-1

  

Date Nut Balls Ready to Serve

Drinking Vinegar! An old time cocktail

Drinking Vinegar! An old time cocktail

We tried a drinking vinegar in Portland Oregon and now in Midland Michigan. Loving the Michigan Beet & Carrot mixed with sparkling water. 1 part vinegar to 4 parts sparkling water. Refreshing! Thank you Mercato di O & V, our own oil and vinegar store on Main Street in Midland!

Read the rest of this entry

Rugelach/Aunt Marie’s Cheese Horns

 

Rugelach / Cheese Horns Rugelach / Cheese Horns

Aunt Marie (Korzin Winiarski) was my mom’s older sister. Mom had 5 brothers and 5 sisters. She was also the middle child. I won’t analyze that. My grandmother did not make many desserts, but her daughters learned to.

Aunt Marie was a wonderful baker. At our large family gatherings she was known for these cookies we called Cheese Horns. The dough is not sweet and is made with cottage cheese. It wasn’t till recent years that I learned these were a form of Rugelach, a rolled cookie made with cream cheese or cottage cheese and filled with a variety of sugar, nuts and dried fruits or poppy seed paste, jam or chocolate. It is a Jewish Eastern European cookie which means “little twist” or “little corners”. I’ve seen much more complex recipes than this one. Mine is easy and not exceptionally sweet.

Rugelach, ready to go! Rugelach, ready to go!

Ingredients

Dough Ingredients

1 cup butter, softened

8 ounces cottage cheese

2 cups flour

Filling Ingredients

1/4 cup melted butter

1/2 cup brown sugar

1/2 cup chopped pecans

Cinnamon, optional

Brush on Rugelach

1 egg yolk mixed with 1 tablespoon water

 

Rugelach Dough Rugelach Dough

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 400 F

2. In a mixer beat butter till fluffy. Add cottage cheese and mix till combined

3. Mix in flour. Chill until ready to use

4. Prepare work space with flour or a use a floured pastry cloth

5. Divide pastry into 4 rounds

Rugelach Dough Round Rugelach Dough Round
6. Place a round of dough on a floured surface. I use a Foley brand pastry cloth and frame and a rolling pin covered with a knit cover.
Foley pastry cloth, covered rolling pin, covered with sifted flour Foley pastry cloth, covered rolling pin, covered with sifted flour
7. Roll into a thin round about 9 inches across.

rugelach28. Brush entire surface with melted butter

  • Sprinkle with dark brown sugar
  • Sprinkle with chopped pecans
  • Sprinkle with cinnamon
Melted butter, brown sugar & chopped pecans Melted butter, brown sugar & chopped pecans
Cut into pie shaped segments Cut into pie shaped segments
9. Using a small knife, cut across the dough in half. Cut into 12-16 segments, depending how large you want the cookies.

Roll Rugelach into horn shapes Roll Rugelach into horn shapes

10. Roll up each cookie, starting at the wider end.
  • Place small end down on a parchment covered baking sheet.
  • Brush entire surface with a mixture of 1 egg yolk and 1 tablespoon water.

Brush Rugelach with egg yolk wash Brush Rugelach with egg yolk wash

11. Bake at 400 degrees for 13 minutes or until just turning lightly browned. Cool on wire racks. Don’t let the bottoms burn.

12. Scrape off the excess flour and pecan/ brown sugar toppings from the work area before rolling the next round of dough. Flour the work surface with more flour.

12. I often double this recipe. When brushing on the egg wash make sure you start with a fresh egg and water half way through brushing the 2 batches of cookies

Voila!

Chorizo and Goat Cheese Lollipops: Xupa Xup

Lollipops of Chorizo Filled with Goat Cheese & Quince Paste

Lollipops of Chorizo Filled with Goat Cheese & Quince Paste

Visiting my daughter Diana in Portland Oregon we were introduced to this fun tapas served at a Barcelona style tapas bar called Ataula, located in the Alphabet District of NW Portland.  This very relaxed low key town presents the most amazing food. This one I could recreate.

For more go to Ataulapdx.com. Barcelona speaks its own language, Catalyan. The Catalyan term for these lollipops is Xupa Xup.

 

Lollipops stand up in a cup of dried beans

Lollipops stand up in a cup of dried beans

Chorizo is a Spanish sausage seasoned with paprika. Have the deli slice it as thin as they can while keeping whole rounds of meat.

Chorizo Round

Chorizo Round

Sliced Paper Thin

Sliced Paper Thin

Quince Paste is a solid thick sweet jam used in Spanish cooking. It’s popular in Australia and New Zealand.  It can also be purchased in a flat rectangular form that is easy to cut into squares or slices to serve with cheese and your other international snack foods. I’d use a jam-like jar of it for this.

Quince Paste is Ready to Use in a Jam-like Jar.

Quince Paste is Ready to Use in a Jam-like Jar.

  • Spread a thin layer on one side of each slice of chorizo.
  • Place a teaspoon or so of plain natural goat cheese on the end of the lollipop stick or skewer.
  • Place the cheese and stick on one slice of chorizo.
  • Top the goat cheese with the other slice of chorizo.
  • Press rim together. The paste works like a glue with a tart sweet flavor.
  • Serve right away or within a few hours. The chorizo separates as it dries out.

Brussels Sprout Salad with Watermelon Radish, Walnuts and Cranberries

Brussels Sprout Salad with Watermelon Radish, Walnuts and Cranberries

Brussels sprouts are quartered and lightly roasted. The bright red watermelon radishes are sliced thin. Also add coarsely chopped walnuts and quartered dried cranberries. Then toss with olive oil and champagne vinegar. So colorful and delish!

Seafood Stew

Jan Doty made this recipe for us this winter and Dave and I have made it several times since! The fresh tarragon provides a bright flavor. Adding the seafood at the very end allows for preparing most of the stew before guests arrive. Thank you again Jan for another outstanding recipe!

Seafood Stew

Seafood Stew

Poaching is an excellent way to cook seafood, since the cooking liquid makes a flavorful base for sauce. This recipe features a French technique called monter au beurre (to mount with butter), whereby chilled butter is whisked into the cooking liquid at the last minute to ensure a satiny sauce. We often double the recipe when entertaining which serves at least 10. A single recipe is written here.

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup thinly sliced leek (about 1 large)

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 cup dry white wine

28 ounce carton of low sodium chicken stock and/or seafood stock (Swanson’s Cooking Stock is a favorite) (if you want a thicker soup, add 1/2 the amount of stock)

3/4 pound medium raw shrimp, peeled and deveined or more

3/4 pound large sea scallops, cut in half or more

1 pound cod, cut into 2 inch cubes

1 pound frozen baby clams, thawed (add liquid too)

1 pound frozen mussels, thawed (add liquid too)

2 tablespoons chilled butter, cut into small pieces

1 and 1/2 cup chopped fresh plum tomatoes

2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon

2 teaspoons grated fresh lemon rind

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper or more as desired

  • Heat oil in a large Dutch oven.
  • Add leek and garlic and cook 4 minutes or until tender, stirring occasionally.
  • Add tomatoes, wine and broth and bring to a simmer at least 10 minutes. Keep at a low simmer covered until ready to serve.
  • When you are ready to serve, whisk the butter in.
  • Add the tarragon, lemon rind, salt, pepper and cayenne and bring broth to a boil.
  • Add the seafood and all it’s liquid.
  • Bring it up to a full boil.
  • Serve immediately with white rice or brown rice and crusty bread or naan/Arabic bread.

 

 

Raw Beet Slaw with Fennel, Tart Apple and Parsley

This was beautifully prepared by one of our dinner club friends, Steve Kin, for our get together last night. It’s a Better Homes and Gardens recipe and is sweet, tart and fresh! We all loved it, except the beet-haters 🙂

Raw Beet Slaw

Raw Beet Slaw

Use a mandolin if at all possible. And protect your fingers with the hand guard too.

In a small bowl combine:

6 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon or orange zest

1 teaspoon honey

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

In a medium bowl toss together:

2 medium beets, peeled and cut into matchsticks

1 fennel bulb, trimmed, halved lengthwise, cored and cut into matchsticks

1 medium Granny Smith apple, cored and cut into matchsticks

1 cup firmly packed roughly chopped fresh flat leaf parsley

Pour the dressing over the slaw and toss. Chill up to 8 hours. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour before serving.